Take your time and ask for help if needed. Once the pipe is cut and placed into the joining sockets use your 1 metre level to guide the pipe straight before drilling the fixing clips into the wall. After installing gutters the final task is to close up your roofline. There are 3 steps — ventilation, re-felting and fitting a birdcomb. Ventilation — if you have used premoulded soffits there is no additional work and you can move straight on to re-felting. If not, then the ventilation method will be either porthole vents or over fascia ventilation.
Porthole Vents — each is a small disc that is a friction fit as long as the holes are drilled — I recommend drilling the holes every mm and between the trusses. Drill the hole and then push the vents into the soffit so they snap into place. Continue along the run until the entire length is ventilated.
Over Fascia Vents — these are easier. They are nailed into the fascia using 50mm nails. Normally around 20mm high. Avoid installing them on corners as the fascia has a lot more load bearing on corners and can become weak if a ventilation strip is placed there. Go along the run, nailing down the vents on top of the fascia. Avoid leaving gaps between the vents as this can lead to infestations such as wasps and bees.
Re-felting — this is a crucial task because if done incorrectly it is the most likely area that will let water into your house. You can use a DPC damp proof course but this is a very flimsy felt that can warp and belly.
An eaves protector keeps its shape through the years. You can normally buy it in 1. To install the hardlip tray, simply lift the existing felt, where it was cut, to expose the roof inside. Place the eaves protector on top of the roof trusses and allow the lip of the eaves protector to sit on top of the fascia. Pin down with at least 30mm pins and overlap each tray. If you do not overlap or put the tray underneath the felt you risk rainwater getting under the tiles and into the house. Bird Comb — a well fitted bird comb prevents anything getting into your roof for the life of the fascias and keeps your eaves clear.
If you have installed an eaves protector there is a small channel where the bird comb fits. Finally, replace the tiles and press down gently so the bird comb flattens in places where the tiles are flat. If they do not push down then let them lie so that they can settle over time.
Once all the tiles are down spend a little time making sure all areas are completely blocked by the bird comb. Clean the roofline area with ordinary glass cleaner. Get a free quote by calling Consult our guttering experts today! Read More. Find out more. Call us today on How much fall should a gutter have? What is incorrect fall? What fall should a gutter have? How do I identify incorrect fall? How do I solve incorrect fall?
Our Blog See all Blog Articles. Search Search for: Search Button. Other News. The lubricant will also help prevent possible leaks that could be caused by expansion and contraction of the material. Unless you are incredibly lucky with the length of your roof, you will mostly likely need to either cut the end off your last length or cut a spare length to size to finish your run at the end of the roof.
Fortunately, at least if you have chosen plastic guttering, this is easy to do with a standard hacksaw. If your gutter runs around the edge of your building, you will of course need to install a bend instead of a stopend here. The methods used thus far can be repeated for any additional fixings or lengths you need to install. Just remember to fit the stopend to the last length of gutter to complete the run.
Dark rain clouds starting to draw in on your previously sunny installation day? Compared to installing the gutters, the downpipe is easy. The first thing you need to do is to mark a degree vertical line down the wall where the centre of the downpipe will be to help guide your installation. Top Tip: Struggling to keep the line straight as you draw? Try just making small marks at regular intervals on the wall in line with the string and then use the straight edge of your spirit level to join them up.
Now you need to mark up the positions of your downpipe clips that will secure the pipe to the wall. Starting at the top of the wall, or at the point where your offset bend will be if you have an overhang see below :.
Downpipe clips should be spaced no more than 1. If your eaves overhang the wall, you will need to use either an adjustable offset bend or two standard offset bends to create a connection between the outlet and the downpipe. Connect your bend to the outlet and then secure the other end to the wall with a downpipe clip, positioned directly below the bend, before connecting your downpipe - make sure you leave a 6mm gap at the top of the downpipe for expansion.
Using a drill with an appropriate masonry drill bit follow the size recommendation given by the guttering manufacturer , you can now drill the fixing holes you marked and fit them with appropriate wall plugs ready for attaching your pipe clips. Note: If your system requires two or more lengths of downpipe to be joined together, we recommend pre-drilling only the holes of the pipe clips that will be used on the first length for now. Now you are ready to fit your first length of downpipe.
Working from the outlet or offset bend if you have one down towards the drain:. If you need to join lengths of downpipe together, fit a joining socket between them and secure with a pipe clip below the socket.
Make sure the rest of the pipe clips marked up for that length still line up, drill the holes, fit with wall plugs and then repeat Step 4 again. Do this for as many pipe lengths required to reach the bottom of your wall. If you are planning on connecting a water butt up to your downpipe to harvest some of the rainwater running off your roof, now is the best time to get the connection kit fitted. Most kits are as easy to install as connecting up a socket joint, but they do require you to cut into the downpipe around 30mm below the level of where the top of the water butt will sit.
Doing this as you install your new downpipe will be much easier than trying to install it on an existing one. If you need to direct the flow of water into a grid, install a downpipe shoe to the bottom of the pipe and secure it with a pipe clip below the socket joint. Pat yourself on the back for a job well done, clear up your tools, remove any excess pieces of off-cuts and then head inside to put your feet up, happy in the knowledge that your house is ready for whatever those rain clouds want to throw at it.
Now all you need to do is take good care of your new system and you should be able to enjoy many, many years of hassle-free gutter ownership. If you would like more information about rainwater guttering, check out our useful Guttering FAQ article where we give answers to the most common guttering questions.
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