Another option you have is to fit a water injection kit to dampen the air charge and prevent detonation. To lower the compression you can go with a re-bore and fit lower compression pistons, you can add a stroker kit to alter the compression ratio by adjusting the compression stroke length. For minor adjustments you could get a larger head and thicker head gasket thus increasing the combustion chamber volume thereby reducing the compression ratio.
You need to aim for around a compression ratio if you are adding a turbo, anything above and you will have problems. Modern direct injection engines run much higher compression ratios.
In all cases you should use the highest octane fuel that you can find as the higher the octane the more resistant the fuel is to engine knock. With the right fuelling though we have seen people running 25psi of boost on a compression ratio but we should add that the aftermarket ECU and fuelling mods were of a very high specification on this application. If you can reduce the boost pressure to psi as opposed to psi , and use the higher octane fuels available e. Shell Optimax you should be able to run a turbo on a standard engine with around the compression ratio.
For information on Octane and its effect on engine knock read our octane article. Direct injection as pioneered on Diesel engines is finding it's way into petrol engines and because the fuel is inject later into the intake charge it reduces the temperature of the charge helping to resist premature ignition. When adding a turbo, for maximum performance gains, you should also get the head flowed, increase the port size, fit bigger valves and go with a larger exhaust header and system as there will be a much larger volume of air flowing through the engine.
Fitting an adjustable boost controller will allow you to experiment on a rolling road while attached to diagnostic equipment to find the optimum boost pressure and timing advance. Particular attention should be paid to fuelling. More air requires more fuel or you risk the danger of burning too lean. You also want to avoid over fuelling when the boost from the turbo drops as this can destroy the engine. On most aftermarket turbo applications it is unlikely that the cars existing fuel delivery system will be able to deliver sufficient fuel so you will need to uprate the fuel pressure with a new pump and fuel pressure regulator, the injectors will also need uprating.
The car computer will also need to take into account the new fuelling requirements of a turbo, especially with regard to throttle position and wastegate control and rapidly changing fuel requirements between on and off boost conditions. We strongly recommend a good aftermarket ECU to allow you to create a custom map for your new turbocharged engine. Most kits contain only the necessary parts to physically get the turbo onto the engine such as an exhaust header and the necessary intake plumbing to the air filter.
Turbos are expensive but will add the most power for your money. You should allow about 40 hours for fitting, you really do need to know what you are doing and will require the ability to create a custom ECU map. Generally speaking though it will usually be easier to source a turbocharged engine and do a engine transplant to this than add a turbo to a NASP engine. Most manufacturers now have a turbo charged engine in their line up which would make a suitable donor for your project.
TorqueCars suggest that you join the friendly tuning forum and get some specific tips and advice for turbo charging your car model - we now have a dedicated turbo tuning forum. Please share this page with your friends on :. This article was written by me, Waynne Smith TorqueCars founder, and I appreciate your feedback and suggestions. This entry was filed under Forced Induction , Tuning.
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Name required. Mail not published required. Your Constructive comments on this article. Very notifying i also am looking to put a turbo into my ford mustang v6 3. I have a 4G63 stroker with 8. I have nasp engine with a ratio. How much psi would i be able to run? And what injectors should i use? Can i run turbo with same compression? Thanks julio. Now the turbo-cooler removes the hot air by running it through oil. Oil-cooling is a preferred method as it is cheaper to assemble and easier to repair.
The turbocharger, thanks to moment of inertia, is still spinning which in turn means its generating heat. Since the engine is no longer running, there is no oil supply. In turn, doing this for a sustained period means one will end up damaging the turbocharger, with the heat getting onto other components.
To prevent this, most manufacturers recommend that at start-up, you idle the car for at least two minutes. What I prefer to do is start the engine, roll down the window and clean the car externally. This means by the time I am done with my dusting, the engine oil has warmed up and the car is good to go.
Even before I come to a halt, the airconditioning is switched off a metre before my destination and after I am done parking, the engine still idles for a minute or two before being shut off.
I follow this strictly with a car whether its turbocharged or not. For a motorcycle, if its liquid or oil-cooled, I idle it for a minute before switching the ignition off. Luckily, some tuning companies have taken some of the guesswork out of the process. After you install a turbo and all the requisite hardware, though, there are a few additional care tips worth noting. Some OEMs, for instance, quote more-frequent spark plug changes with their turbos, Cars.
In addition, not only are turbochargers lubricated by the engine oil, they can be rather hard on it, Mobil reports. Low-quality oil, and infrequent oil changes, can lead to turbo failure. As can failing to let the oil get up to temperature, or shutting the engine off immediately after driving. In the latter case, that can leave some oil in hot parts of the turbos, where it can burn up and leave damaging deposits.
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